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TROGLODYTE HOUSES

A troglodyte dwelling takes advantage of the thermoregulatory properties of the earth to guarantee a milder internal clime when extreme temperatures afflict the external environment, especially in summer. The cuts for the dwellings must adapt to the geology and morphology of the mountain, forced as they are to insinuate themselves beneath the most compact geological layers, normally horizontal and at different heights of a relief. This determines8u the typical terraced layout in the Amazigh village, with rows of dwellings arranged along paths connected by steep diagonal ramps. The underground houses always have a private space in front, provided of built facilities arranged around a court. In the internal part, the presence of the alcove is almost constant, normally isolated at the bottom of the cavity, while the rest of the room presents features linked to daytime domestic activities such as spinning and weaving.

GSOUR AND GHOURAF

The gsour (sing. gsar or gasr) are fortified collective granaries located in the mountain range extending from the Djebel Matmata in Tunisia to the Djebel Nafusa in Libya. The origin of these buildings is debated among scholars, according to some they even date back to the Arab invasion. The gasr is the solution that the local tribes developed for the storage of food supplies (cereals, oil, dates) in a safe place even in periods when the needs of pastoral transhumance forced the departure of its strongest members. About 150 gsour have been counted in southern Tunisia. They are normally stand-alone buildings (Gsar Zanata, Gsar Ouled Sultan, Gsar Awadid) consisting of storerooms (ghorfa, pl. ghouraf) on several floors around a central open area with an elliptical or square shape. Some hilltop villages like Chenenni reserve the highest and most protected part of the settlement for the storerooms that therefore are arranged along the higher alleys of the village and usually called kala. Finally there are centres like the village of Guermassa where the storerooms are distributed as premises pertaining to individual houses.The ghorfa is the basic cell, the generating unit of the entire composition. The building is the result of the juxtaposition of these basic vaulted storerooms that fit together in a serial way limited only by the capacity of the lower structures to support the weight of the cells added from time to time above. The side-by-side vaults increase the resistance of the structure through the mutual balance of forces despite the relative simplicity of the masonry technique. When this balance is broken due to any damage that is not immediately repaired, the entire structure is at risk. In the isolated gsour with a central courtyard there is a single entrance (sguifa) closed by one or two wooden gates and controlled by the guardian who lives in the gasr. Although, on the outside, the gsar appears as a unitary architecture with its high wall enclosure that surrounds the court, in reality its construction takes place in successive phases and times. The central courtyard is used for the animals that transport the goods to rest; it is often a meeting and exchange place and the seat of the assemblies of the tribe that owns the gasr. The arrangement of the storerooms around the courtyard reflects the history of the members of the tribe. Often the gsour develop in height with the more or less orderly overlapping of the storerooms, just as it is easy to recognise the partition of originally unitary rooms due to family ramifications that could not be resolved with new cells. The facades of the gsour are animated by stairs to reach the upper cells in projecting stone slabs (roukiba) and by olive tree trunks that support small landings in front of the upper doors or used to lift by ropes the products to be preserved. Inside the cells are divided according to the foodstuffs they have to preserve with dividing walls and mezzanines. Often the large jars for the conservation of the oil are walled in the floor so as to guarantee their robustness and constant temperature. The vaults show how a technical expedient has become a construction tradition that solves the needs of the tribe's transformations and is an enduring medium of its identity. The vaults are built on a support made with hay or earth, empirically following a profile close to that of a catenary. The surface of the support is covered with a layer of clayey earth on which geometric decorations, apotropaic symbols and sometimes inscriptions are engraved. The first casting of chalky mortar is carried out on this bed on which the stones of the vault are laid. Once the support has been dismantled, the intrados is enriched by relief decorations that amplify the importance, not only symbolic, that this space has for the family group and the entire community.

MOSQUES AND MARABOUTS

The Ibadi mosques, entirely covered with the characteristic white plaster, attract the attention of every visitors. They are mostly small buildings with a quadrangular plan, divided inside into two or more naves delimited by arches on pillars or columns. Each nave is covered by vaults, built with the same technique used in gsours, obtaining a relief decoration in the intrados. The mihrab is obtained in the wall of the quiblah (QIBLAH) projecting from the perimeter of the external walls. The minaret is quadrangular and small. Instead of the minaret, several mosques have a small and particular architectural element, a kind of superimposed turret, called suma. Another architectural landmark of the landscape of the Djebel are the tombs of Sufi Muslim leaders, the venerated “marabouts”, themselves called marabouts. They are very simple structures, mostly small quadrangular pavilions covered by a hemispherical dome, usually isolated on top of hills or other well detectable places. Like mosques, the marabouts are cared for and periodically plastered, thus contributing to their visibility in the landscape.

OIL MILLS

Oil mills, whether carved into troglodyte caves like dwellings or built within granaries, are essential landmarks in village topography due to their economic significance. All the oil mills are equipped with one or more millstones to crush the olives and one or more presses to extract the oil from the pomace. The millstones have collection bases 2-3 meters in diameter and their grinding system is made with hard olive branches that allow a blindfolded dromedary to rotate a heavy millstone cut in limestone. Only the larger villages had more than one oil mill, mostly located in different parts of the village and always out of the gasr. The olive pressing service was paid in percentages of the product separately to the owner of the mill and of the animal. The presses used long palm trunks for the lever moved with ropes applied to a system of pulleys. Today almost all of them are in disuse, but when you enter one of these mills, you can still smell the oil soaked in these premises.

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The interior of a troglodyte house in Chenini. The houses are normally composed of a larger room with an alcove at the back, separated by a partition. The ceiling is made of a compact rock layer, walls and ceiling are entirely covered with gypsum plaster, the floor is made of bare rock and is conveniently covered with mats and carpets.

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Gasr Beni Barca occupies the summit of a mountain and adapts its ellipsoidal plan to the shape of the relief. The gasr is surrounded by a high wall and has only one entrance. Inside there are dozens of vaulted ghourafs placed side by side and superimposed. Outside, other storehouses were built, since evidently the cells inside the gasr were not enough for an expanding community.

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The interior of Gasr Tounket with its cells-ghouraf on multiple floors reachable through simple staircases built by superimposing stone slabs.

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Diagram showing the construction system of the vaults of the ghouraf-cells of the gsour: the room is filled with bales of hay on which a sort of centring is built in sawn palm trunks. These in turn are sealed with a layer of clayey earth on which the decorations intended to remain in relief in the intrados of the vault are impressed. On this bed the gypsum mortar is laid on which the vault is built in stone elements bound with more gypsum mortar.

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The partial collapse of a ghorfa in Guermassa shows the construction technique of these vaults: the catenary profile of the vaults allows its stability even with thin masonry. The vault is built with gypsum mortar, which has a very rapid setting. The stones used in the masonry do not work as voussoirs of an arch but are laid horizontally to give body to the masonry which therefore works structurally according to the principles of thin vaults. These are solutions of a vernacular architecture that does not know the calculations of a real project but is based on experiences handed down through generations.

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The gasr of Doiret is composed, as in Chenini, of buildings where the single storage cells (ghouraf) are superimposed even up to 4 floors. The adding of cells and their refurbishment follow the needs of each family that vary over time, but the technique and the construction typology remain homogeneous over time, following a centuries-old tradition that is exhausted only with the abandonment of these villages and the socio- economic structure that supported them.

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Interior of different ghouraf in Chenini, the single cells of the storehouses. The characteristic vaulted roof with the relief decoration may be built partly on the natural rock and partly on structures. Often the side walls are articulated in arcosolia to obtain more space for storage. This is organized using large jars, baskets or basins built into the ghorfa. Sometimes the large oil jars are sunk into the floor, another expedient that combines the saving of space with the benefits of the insulation of the natural ground. When a ghorfa is built partially underground, like it happens in Chenini, extensions are made by digging small rooms directly into the rock.

Mosquée Guermassa
Mosquée Chenini

Relief decorations are a distinctive feature of the way vaults and arches are built throughout the region. They are found in all buildings where this type of covering is used, such as mosques, mills and mostly in the ghouraf of the gsour. These are mostly geometric decorations with symbols that are often obvious but sometimes ambiguous. Hand and foot prints are also common, serving both to declare ownership of the property and to protect it from malign influences. Inscriptions naming the executors of the work, the owners and the year of construction are also common.

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The olive press located at the entrance to Chenini was in use until recent years. It is a troglodyte space, closed by a simple wall towards the outside. This infrastructure was shared by many different farmers who paid for the use of the millstone and the animal, a camel moving it, leaving a percentage of the product to the respective owners.

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The interior of the mills is mainly occupied by two machines: the millstone for crushing the olives, operated by a camel, and the press for pressing the pomace. The pivot and arms of the millstone use olive wood, the hardest and most resistant available in the area despite the difficulty in finding elements that are not excessively twisted. The press is instead made with long palm trunks operated with ropes applied to the ceiling and to the machine itself.

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The mosque of Guermassa stands out on the saddle that joins the two reliefs of the site. Even in completely abandoned centres like Guermassa, the mosque still receives periodic maintenance and is occasionally frequented. This is evident in the white plaster coating that makes the mosque an unmistakable landmark in the territory.

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The mosque of Chenini is built on the edge of the main nucleus of the village and of the gasr. From its minaret the call to prayer resounds in the surrounding valleys where part of the population still resides.

Jessour 1
Jessour 2

The marabout of Si Baraka near the mosque of the Seven Sleepers, east of Chenini. Marabouts are tombs of spiritual leaders, mystics or teachers, who in Ibadi Islam are the object of deep respect bordering on veneration. These mausolea are simple buildings, usually single square chambers covered by a hemispherical dome, often isolated and located to become landmarks in the semi-desert territory.